Valentino debuts corset tops and bold jewelry in Parisian 19th-century library setting

KUALA LUMPUR, 5 OCTOBER 2026 —

Valentino’s Alessandro Michele unveils maximalist Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Paris library, as brand battles €103m loss and 15% revenue drop

Valentino’s creative director Alessandro Michele staged his Spring/Summer 2027 collection on October 4 in the historic reading room of Paris’s 19th-century Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, blending baroque opulence with literary symbolism as the luxury house grapples with a €103 million loss in 2025 and a 15% revenue decline, according to Reuters.

The show, titled “Antibiblioteca”—a play on the Italian word for “anti-library”—marked Michele’s first full collection since taking over as Valentino’s creative director in March 2024, following his eight-year tenure at Gucci, where his maximalist, gender-fluid designs revived the brand.

With shareholders Qatar-backed Mayhoola (70% stake) and Kering (30%) having pledged additional financial support in June 2026 after debt surged, the collection’s theatricality underscores the pressure on Michele to replicate his Gucci success while navigating Valentino’s financial struggles.

The October 4 presentation transformed the library’s iconic iron-lattice ceiling and oak reading tables into a stage for a bright, eclectic aesthetic—corset tops in hot pink, yellow, and blue paired with contrasting lace skirts, ostrich-feather embellishments, and strapless dresses, culminating in a floor-length Valentino red gown with a giant black bow.

Accessories leaned into baroque gold necklaces, chunky pearl earrings, and sequined cross-body bags, while men’s looks featured half-buttoned double-breasted jackets, sequinned shirts, and “VILLAIN TEEN” baseball caps.

Celebrities including Alexander Skarsgård, Cynthia Erivo, American stylist Law Roach, and Chinese model Yidan Huang attended, each arriving with a book—an homage to the setting’s literary roots. The show’s setting, described by Michele as “Antibiblioteca”, suggested a rebellion against traditional narratives, aligning with Valentino’s push toward gender-neutral, extravagant designs amid a broader luxury market shift toward experimental, high-concept presentations.

Valentino’s financial strain deepened in 2025, with revenues falling 15% year-on-year and losses widening to €103 million, prompting shareholders to inject further capital in June 2026. Kering, which holds a 30% stake, retains an option to increase its ownership to 100% by 2029, reflecting confidence in the brand’s long-term potential under Michele’s direction. The June support followed a rise in debt, though exact figures were not disclosed.

The collection’s reception will be closely watched in Malaysia’s luxury market, where Valentino competes with brands like Gucci (also under Kering) and Prada, all vying for high-net-worth consumers amid economic uncertainty. Locally, Valentino’s flagship store in Kuala Lumpur’s Pavilion KL and partnerships with department stores such as Parkson position the brand as a premium player, though its €103 million loss and 15% revenue drop may temper immediate growth expectations.

Industry analysts will assess whether Michele’s Gucci-proven formula—maximalist designs, bold accessories, and theatrical storytelling—can translate to Valentino’s heritage-driven audience. The brand’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, now in development, will be a key indicator of its turnaround strategy, with Kering’s potential full acquisition by 2029 hinging on sustained financial improvement.

The show’s closing look—a Valentino red gown with a dramatic black bow—symbolized the brand’s ambition to merge historical grandeur with contemporary rebellion, a gamble as Michele balances Valentino’s legacy with the need for commercial revival. The next critical test will be sales performance in 2027, with Kering’s stake and shareholder support remaining the brand’s lifeline.