Alessandro Michele brings dancefloor energy to Valentino’s Paris show

PARIS, SAINTE-GENEVIÈVE LIBRARY, 6 OCTOBER 2026 —

Valentino’s Paris Show Under Michele: A Bold Bet on Glamour as Luxury Market Shifts

With Valentino’s revenue plunging 15% to €1.12 billion in 2025 amid a turbulent luxury market, Michele’s maximalist vision now faces the test of whether it can revive the brand’s relevance in an era where "personality dressing" is gaining traction.

Michele, who transformed Gucci into a maximalist powerhouse during his seven-year tenure, has been at Valentino for just 30 months but has already presented 10 collections and four runway shows. His fifth show for the brand, held at the historic Sainte-Geneviève library, opened with satin bustier tops paired with knee-length skirts—some nearly translucent in gauzy fabrics, others adorned with glimmering beads, feathers, or both.

The menswear segment doubled down on the party aesthetic, featuring creased trousers, silky boxers peeking above waistbands, and deliberately sloppy double-breasted blazers. "I like playing with the idea of glamour in the wrong way," Michele said, framing his approach as a rebellion against perfection.

The collection’s boldness extends to its cultural references, including deep V-cut cotton vest tops and brightly colored baseball caps emblazoned with "Villain Teen"—a phrase Michele playfully repurposed. In Italian, he noted, it translates to a "chic way to say you’re a little outside of the rules," aligning with his strategy of subverting traditional luxury codes.

Valentino’s founder, Valentino Garavani, famously despised casual fashion, but Michele’s embrace of edgy, youthful elements reflects a broader shift in the industry. The brand’s ownership structure—70% controlled by Mayhoola and 30% by Kering, with the latter holding options to acquire full control by the end of the decade—adds financial stakes to Michele’s creative gambit.

A key focus of his turnaround strategy remains red-carpet dressing, where Valentino excels. The collection featured longer ruffled gowns and bow-adorned dresses designed for high-profile events, with a standout hot pink dress boasting a giant pleated train and a massive black bow that trailed dramatically down the runway. Michele emphasized "sensuality as part of the vocabulary of the brand," signaling a move away from his earlier voluminous silhouettes toward more skin-revealing designs.

The show’s reception has been mixed, with some critics questioning whether his opulent style aligns with the current market mood, though industry observers note that the "quiet luxury" phase may be waning.

For Malaysian and regional luxury consumers, Valentino’s direction under Michele carries implications beyond aesthetics. The brand’s emphasis on red-carpet glamour and high-profile visibility aligns with the growing influence of digital and social media in fashion, where looks are dissected in real time. While Valentino’s revenue decline reflects broader challenges in the luxury sector—including economic uncertainty and shifting consumer preferences—Michele’s boldness may resonate in markets where individuality and spectacle remain powerful drivers of demand.

The next phase for Valentino will hinge on whether Michele’s vision can translate into commercial success, particularly as Kering evaluates its stake in the brand. With the luxury market at a crossroads, his ability to balance artistic risk with market relevance will determine whether Valentino can reclaim its position as a leader in high-fashion innovation.

The Paris show’s closing moments—a defiant, train-draped pink gown—left little doubt about his intentions: glamour, after all, is never truly "wrong."

Related: Valentino