Prada, Gucci Among Retailers Hit in Milan Fashion Week Slump

KUALA LUMPUR, 29 SEPTEMBER 2026 —

The runway at Milan Fashion Week for spring 2027 was dominated by skirts, with Prada’s collection making the silhouette the week’s defining statement.

Victoria Dartigues, womenswear and accessories buying director at Galeries Lafayette, said Milan felt “confident, cohesive and energized, with a clear emphasis on product and purpose,” and highlighted how the Italian houses kept craftsmanship at the heart of the shows.

Prada’s designer duo, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, presented a parade of skirts that ranged from simple, utilitarian cuts to highly embellished pieces. The brand’s Velcro‑adjustable skirts attracted particular praise for their practicality, a feature that “helps customers with shifting body sizes,” according to the runway commentary.

Linda Fargo, senior vice‑president fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman, noted that “Prada was unmistakably Prada… the skirt was literally a fashion imperative for now and for spring.”

The season’s aesthetic leaned heavily on maximalist detailing. Crocheted textures, colour‑blocking, sheer fabrics and unexpected combinations of animal and floral patterns appeared alongside strong tailoring and utilitarian cargo pants. Lace, sequins, embroidery, fringe and rich details contributed to a colourful palette that “outranked neutrals and black and white,” observed a fashion analyst in the post‑show report.

Bottega Veneta offered a fresh, optimistic start to spring, with Louise Trotter’s creative direction showcasing the house’s iconic craftsmanship through vibrant hues and one‑of‑a‑kind details. Loro Piana chose the historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense for its presentation, allowing visitors to experience cashmere innovations up close and reinforcing the season’s focus on workmanship as a trend in its own right.

Onitsuka Tiger turned its runway into a whimsical Route 66‑inspired world, complete with a yellow‑and‑black gas station, café and a miniature supermarket where the viral Mexico 66 sneaker was displayed like fresh produce. The concept highlighted how brands are blurring the line between retail and runway, a move echoed by Gucci’s store‑show that created an “art‑museum‑worthy” environment to showcase its re‑branding efforts.

Across the shows, the skirt emerged not only as a garment but as a versatile building block. Designers explored the silhouette through slip skirts, pleated versions, twisted cuts and even a “Bra‑da” – a bra worn as a top – that appeared in multiple collections. The emphasis on reworking familiar pieces in new ways resonated with buyers, who said customers are seeking “well‑made wardrobe building blocks as well as emotional items that feel special.”

For Malaysian luxury retailers, the Milan narrative carries clear implications. Prada Malaysia, along with other local boutiques, traditionally mirrors global seasonal cues while adapting to the country’s tropical climate and modest dress codes. The practical aspects of Prada’s Velcro skirts could appeal to Malaysian shoppers who value adjustability for comfort in humid weather.

Meanwhile, the heightened focus on artisanal techniques aligns with Malaysia’s own textile heritage, from Songket to batik, offering a point of connection for consumers who appreciate craftsmanship.

The shift toward maximalist detailing also presents an opportunity for Malaysian designers to experiment with bold embellishments without abandoning the understated elegance that local buyers often prefer. Brands such as Bonia and Jimmy Choo have begun incorporating richer textures and vivid colours in recent collections, a trend that may be accelerated by the Milan outlook.

Looking ahead, the runway’s message is clear: the skirt will remain a cornerstone of spring wardrobes, and its adaptability will drive future designs. Dartigues warned that “the strongest collections balanced heritage with modernity and sensuality without excess,” suggesting that brands which can fuse classic craftsmanship with contemporary flair are likely to succeed in both European capitals and Asian markets.

Fargo added that “the road to take has been there all along,” implying that houses staying true to their DNA while embracing new creative directions will continue to resonate with global shoppers.

In sum, Milan’s spring 2027 shows reinforced the power of the skirt as a versatile, expressive piece, while the season’s broader emphasis on craftsmanship, bold colour and immersive retail experiences offers Malaysian retailers a roadmap for aligning global luxury trends with local consumer preferences.